The oldest MGF’s are now 16 years old and accordingly every car has a different history, with differing levels of maintenance, quality of repairs, and usage. We strongly recommend that if you are unfamiliar with these cars that you take an expert along or at the least ensure the car is professionally inspected.

This guide must not be relied upon exclusively.

The MGF was originally released in the UK in 1995. It was the first all new MG sports car since the MGB of 1962 and as such there were high expectations of it. Development of the car commenced when the Rover Group was owned by British Aerospace, however when the MGF finally went into production the Rover Group had been bought by BMW.

At the time of the launch, only one version was available, being the 1.8i. In 1996, the VVC version was introduced, which features a Variable Valve Control version of the 1.8 litre engine and some minor trim changes.

The car remained relatively unchanged until 2000, when the Mk2 models were introduced. Interior and exterior trim was all changed at this time. Two new versions were introduced, being a base model 1.6 litre and a 1.8i Stepspeed model, which featured a steptronic CVT (Constantly Variable Transmission) automatic gearbox.

In 2001, a high performance model called the Trophy 160SE was introduced, with uprated engine, steering, suspension and a spoiler kit. This car was only in production for a year.

The MGF ceased production in 2002 and was replaced by the TF. The bodyshell was significantly facelifted, and the suspension completely changed from the Hydragas system to a more conventional coil over telescopic layout. The engines were also modified slightly, along with some trim changes. There were four models in the TF range – refer to the Appendix for details.

Refer to the timeline in Appendix 1 to see the changes in the MGF during its production run.

 1.8i or VVC?

The majority of MGF’s in New Zealand are the Mk1 versions, being 1996-98 models and most are Japanese imports. The key decision to make in this market is whether you want a 1.8i or a VVC. The key distinguishing factors between the models are as follows:

Note that although the power steering, ABS and passenger airbag were initially options on the 1.8i, most cars do in fact have these fitted.  Power steering and ABS will be relatively obvious, however to check for a passenger airbag look at the panel on the dashboard directly in front of the passenger – if it has “Airbag” written on it then the vehicle has a passenger airbag. If ABS brakes are fitted then the ABS unit is fitted under the bonnet on the left hand side facing the car from the front. It has a number of tubes fitted to it.

Note also that VVC engines have “VVC” engraved on top of the plenum chamber (this was deleted on Mk2 & TF versions).  It is important to ensure that the car you are looking at is in fact a VVC as some 1.8i cars may have had VVC wheels or seats installed.  Note that there are no badges to distinguish the models, except for the MGTF 160, which has a TF160 badge on the rear of the car. Also the 8th character of the VIN code will be a 'T' in the VVC and a 'G' in the 1.8i or TF135 version. The VIN plate is found at the bottom of the windscreen on the left hand side.

The VVC was intended as the higher performance version of the range.  However, the nature of the variable valve control system is such that in city driving there is no noticeable difference between the versions.  Below 4000 rpm the power difference is not significant, as is evidenced by acceleration figures.  Above that, the additional power of the VVC is readily apparent, as the engine will willingly rev right up to the redline with a continuous surge of power, which is quite addictive and excellent for overtaking.  The 1.8i runs out of breath as the revs get higher, but is still a willing and capable engine.  There is no real difference in handling or braking between the two versions.

The VVC does have a few extras such as the half leather seats and slightly beefier looking wheels.  It really comes down to personal choice.  If you are a particularly enthusiastic driver, the VVC is certainly the one to go for.  However, if you are mainly driving around town and are less concerned with ultimate performance, the 1.8i should suit you fine. 

It is interesting to note that the pricing is currently not significantly different for secondhand versions between 1.8i and VVC.  When the cars were newer there was a notable difference in used values, but this seems to have lessened as the cars have got older.

Mk1 or Mk2?

At present there are very few Mk2 models in New Zealand, as these cars were not sold new in New Zealand in any quantity and used examples from Japan have not come to New Zealand in the same numbers as the Mk1. 

The key differences in the Mk2 were a change in the design of wheels, the installation of clear front indicator lenses instead of amber ones, the painting of the windscreen frame in body colour rather than black, and a redesign of the centre console and door trims.  The instruments also received a new font, and a height adjustable steering column was introduced.  The stereo was changed from two to four speakers, and new seats were installed.  The colours both inside and out were also changed.  The mechanical changes were fairly minor, with a double skinned fuel tank and some changes to the power steering.  The head gasket was also changed around this time and the gearbox linkages were changed to improve the shift quality.

The Mk2 is very clearly a better car than the Mk1, though the driving differences are relatively insignificant.  The exterior does look a little more up to date (though this will depend on your preferences) and the inside is brighter.  The seats are a little higher which results in a less sporty driving position, however this is more than compensated by the adjustable steering column, which significantly improves legroom for taller drivers.

The Mk2’s are obviously newer and command higher prices, which will also affect your buying decision.

MGF or MGTF?

The TF represented a significant change in focus for the MGF.  The F was designed as a very useable everyday sports car that would be at home in city driving, the supermarket car park and on country roads.  However, the TF was introduced following MG Rover’s sale by BMW to Phoenix and accordingly its design was a result of a new MG philosophy, aimed at improving the driving focus of the car.  Accordingly, the TF is a sportier and more focused drive, which has its positive and negatives.

The exterior of the car received a significant facelift, with new front and rear bumpers, sill panels and bootlid.  The new front bumper and spoiler were designed to improve the motorway stability in crosswinds, which had been a criticism of the F.  This changed the soft, rounded look of the MGF into a harder and more aggressive look, the success of which depends on personal preference.  Under the skin, the facelift hid significant additional bracing installed throughout the shell, which improved torsional rigidity by around 20%.

The engines remained the same K series units with the capacity unchanged, however there were changes to the intake system, throttle bodies and porting profiles.  This increased power and improved throttle response.  The result was a rise in power for the VVC (now called the TF160) from 143bhp to 158bhp, and the 1.8i (now called the TF135) from 118bhp to 134bhp.

The biggest change from the F to the TF was the suspension.  The MGF featured a Hydragas suspension system, however this was replaced in the TF with completely new suspension featuring coil spring units.  The modifications were quite extensive, and involved changes to the bodyshell to accommodate the new system.  The intention was to produce a car with tighter and more responsive handling.  The steering rack was changed and the power assistance adjusted to offer more progressive changes in assistance with speed changes.  The brakes on the TF160 were enhanced to 304mm with four piston callipers at the front, and changes in brake bias for all versions.

As can be seen from the information above, the changes from F to TF were quite extensive.  In most ways, this resulted in a more focused sports car that is more responsive and more fun to drive.  However, this focus on providing a more intensive driving experience resulted in the TF being slightly harder to live with.  Compared to the F it has a much harder ride, stiffer gearbox and harder clutch.  It is by no means difficult to drive and on a winding road it is a lot of fun, but day to day an F is a slightly easier car to live with.

Your decision to buy an F or TF may be more based on budget, but we would recommend you drive both to determine which you like the most.

MECHANICAL

a) Engine

All MGF’s and MGTF’s have the Rover K-Series engine.  This engine commenced production in 1992 in 1.4 litre form and has been used in many Rover and Land Rover products, including the Rover 100, 200, 400, 600 and 800 series, the Rover 25, 45 and 75, and the Land Rover Freelander.  In the MGF, it was enlarged to 1800cc.  It is an all aluminium engine, with double overhead camshafts and four valves per cylinder.  All MGF’s have fuel injection.

The engine was an advanced design when first released, and has shown itself to be capable of clocking up high mileage's.  It is a particularly economical engine, and in the MGF (assuming a reasonable style of driving) a full tank of fuel should allow anything from 400-600km of motoring.

Despite its inherent soundness, there are a few areas where the K series engine in MGF form has shown weaknesses that need to be checked when purchasing a car.  The first and most critical area is the cooling system.  Being mid engined, the MGF has a front mounted radiator with long coolant pipes running under the car and carrying the coolant to the engine.  It is extremely important that the coolant has been changed at the recommended intervals, and that the system has been correctly bled when the coolant has been changed, to avoid air locks.  The coolant level should be half way up the expansion tank in the engine bay – if the coolant level is lower or the coolant looks in poor condition, view the car with suspicion!  It is also important that the radiator is in good order, the metal coolant lines under the car (and the hoses) are in good shape and the electric fans are working. 

Any problem in these areas can cause overheating, which frequently leads to failure of the head gasket.  There have been many suggestions for ways to avoid head gasket failure and just as many suggestions for why it happens, however when viewing a potential purchase it is critical that the car has been correctly serviced, that the coolant level is correct, the coolant in good condition, and that the temperature gauge does not go above halfway.  Normally, the gauge will sit just below the centre and does not generally move.  The engine has quite a low volume of coolant and therefore it warms to operating temperature quickly; however the low volume means that keeping the level right is very important.  Rover introduced a revised head gasket in 2000, and any car that has suffered head gasket failure should have had the revised gasket installed.  More recently, Land Rover introduced another revised gasket which some owners are using.

The K Series engine has belt driven camshafts, and the belts should be changed either 5 yearly or at 100,000km.  If the belts break, the pistons and valves will contact which results in expensive repair work.  It is therefore important to ensure that the cam belts have been changed at the correct intervals.  This is a relatively time consuming job given the restricted access in the MGF’s engine bay.

During 1998, MG issued a service recall to ensure that the bolts holding the camshaft belt pulley bolt assembly were correctly torqued.  At worst, failure of the bolts will cause major engine damage.  However, a check can be performed quite easily by a knowledgeable garage to ensure that the bolts are correctly torqued and located.  This is a relatively simple check that should be performed on any MGF.

Beyond this, there are no specific weaknesses in the MGF’s engine.  However, as when buying any secondhand car it is important that all the regular checks are performed.  Getting a compression test and cooling system pressure test are important, as is checking for oil or coolant leaks and reviewing the service history.

b) Gearbox

The MGF and TF have a five speed manual gearbox.  The Steptronic version has a steptronic automatic gearbox, though these cars are relatively rare.

The manual gearbox has not suffered from any specific problems, however ensure that the gear change operates easily with no graunching or sticking.  The linkage between the centrally mounted gearbox and the gear lever can stick or even break, so if the gearchange does not operate smoothly the linkage could be the cause of the problem.

For the steptronic gearbox the gearbox oil is used to lubricate and to drive the pulley system that governs the gear ratio that is being used. This oil must be changed every two years and it MUST be the oil specified in the owners handbook, which is 'Esso EZL 799'. Normal auto transmission gearbox oil will result in transmission failure at some stage.

c) Suspension, steering, brakes

The MGF has fully independent suspension with double wishbones front and rear and anti roll bars front and rear. This is damped by a Hydragas suspension system instead of more conventional springs and dampers.

The suspension is strong and reliable, and delivers excellent handling with a very good ride compromise.  The key matter to check is that the ride height has been correctly set.  The suspension height generally needs resetting about every two years, and is done by a garage using a Hydragas pump.  Most MG Rover dealers have these, as do some specialist garages (refer to our TECHNICAL page for further information).  Some cars have had gas let out in order to lower them, which does little for the handling and results in the car scraping on every driveway and speed bump.  With the suspension correctly set, the car will handle significantly better than with it set too low.  A simple way of checking this is to measure the distance between the centre of the front wheel and the top of the wheelarch.  This should be 368mm (+/- 10mm).  Note that this check should be performed on a flat surface, at least two hours after the car was last driven.  A very few cars have been correctly lowered using lowering knuckles, however the effects on handling are debatable.

If the suspension height or wheel alignment is out, the front tyres will often show premature wear on their inner edge.

The suspension suffers from wear and tear as any other car does, so a drive will reveal any clocks, knocks or rattles that may indicate wear in bushes and other components.

The TF reverted to a more conventional coil spring over shock absorber layout, which gave the car more responsive handling at the detriment of the ride.  As most TF’s are still relatively young, no major issues have arisen, however once again all the usual checks should be performed for wear.

The steering on MGF’s and TF’s is quite unique.  It is an electric power steering system, i.e. the power assistance is provided by an electric motor rather than the usual hydraulic system.  The motor offers a variable degree of assistance depending on road speed,  providing more assistance at low speeds and less at higher speeds.  The system is generally reliable, however a road test should determine if the assistance is working correctly.

The brakes on both the MGF and TF are strong and reliable, with no major vices.  The usual checks for juddering, vibration and squeaking should be made.

d) Electrical

The electrical system on the MGF and TF is generally very reliable, however as with any open car it is important to check that everything works.

MGF’s do have a problem with the brake light switch, which can often stick on.  Resetting is a simple job, however it pays to check that the brake lights are coming on and off correctly.

Whilst inside the car, check that the SRS light on the dashboard illuminates when the ignition is turned on and goes out when the engine is started.  If it does not, it could indicate a problem with the airbag system, or more commonly a wire under one of the seats has come adrift.

The bodywork of the MGF is very strong and well constructed.  The panel fit of the car is extremely good and the original paint finish was to a high standard.  There are no major areas of structural weakness or corrosion, however there are still a number of areas to check.

Firstly, ensure that the paint finish is good and that the panel fit is good.  Doors should all fit very well and should open and close easily.  In particular, check the fit of the front and rear bumpers.  The fit around the guards and bonnet should be tight and uniform; if not, the car has likely had either panel changes or accident damage.

There have been some instances of cars suffering from corrosion in the sill area.  These have mainly occurred in the UK and have been superficial only, however check the sills for any signs of visual corrosion.

It is also important to open the front boot, remove the spare wheel, and check that no water has gathered in the base of the spare wheel well.  If it has, check for leaks and ensure no rust has started.

As with any convertible, it is critical to check the condition of the soft top.  The top on MGF’s was very high quality and has shown itself to be durable, however check it for wear and any binding spots and also ensure that the mechanism rises and lowers freely – sometime the frame can stick half way down.  Also check that the zip for the plastic rear window operates correctly, and ensure that the window itself is clear and free from fold marks.  Folding the roof without either unzipping the rear window or folding it correctly can lead to marks, or at worst case tears, in the window.  Replacement windows are relatively economical to install.

The interior of the MGF Mk1 is relatively plain, though well designed.  The materials have not proved to be particularly durable, and high mileage or neglected cars often have interior trim that appears very well worn.  In particular, the piping on the edge of the seats can wear, carpet in the footwells can become threadbare, and the door trims can show scratching.  Most of these items can be easily checked visually, however a car with a well worn interior may indicate that it has not been particularly well looked after.

A further important matter to check on the inside of the car is to ensure there are no leaks.  The key spots to check are the seals between windows and soft top, the bottom of the door mirror mountings, and the footwells.  The hood seals (being the seals between the windows and the hood) are particularly important, as leaks can indicate a number of things.  The windows are susceptible to being out of adjustment, which can lead to leaks.  Furthermore, the plastic stops that govern the window travel can become worn, which results in the windows travelling up too far and compressing the hood seals.  If the window stops are replaced after a period of pressuring the hood seals, leaks result.  The cost of replacement seals is relatively significant so it is important to ensure that the seals are in good order and adjustment of the windows is correct.

If you are looking at a Mk1, you may also spot that the handles that adjust the door mirrors are either missing or broken.  These are simple to fix and the parts are readily available.

The majority of MGF’s in New Zealand are imported from Japan.  There are no significant differences in specification between Japanese market and NZ new MGF’s, however there are some issues to be aware of.

Many MGF’s were purchased as second cars in Japan, and accordingly many have very low mileage's.  However, it is important to ensure that the car has been correctly maintained, particularly in regards to the cooling system.  If the car has service documents, ensure they are up to date (this may require a Japanese translator!) and if it does not, consider having the car looked at by an expert – or allow a budget for subsequent checking and rectification work.  There have been some cases of written off and repaired MGF’s being bought into New Zealand, so take care that you are buying a genuine and well looked after vehicle.

All MG’s through the ages have been modified by their owners, and the MGF is no exception.  There are a variety of companies in the UK offering performance enhancements, handling kits, exterior changes, and interior improvements.  We do not express a view on these as many come down to individual taste, however if you wish to personalise your MGF there are a number of different options available.  However, be aware that performance and handling modifications often offer little change for a high dollar outlay.  The standard setup of the MGF is extremely good and is more than sufficient for road use.

The MGF and TF were the best selling convertible sports cars in the UK right through their period of production.  They are a well designed car that is very suitable for everyday use as well as enthusiastic weekend driving.  They are well built and practical, and can handle city driving as well as long distance touring.

The price range for MGF/TF is now significant, with 1996 cars starting from as little as $6,000.  This offers exceptional value for money, however it is important to ensure that a potential purchase has been well looked after.  Get yourself a good example and you will be assured of many years of very enjoyable motoring.

Please refer below for Timeline of MGF History

The MG Car Club has provided this information as a general guide to purchasing an MGF.  It should not be relied upon to detect all problems in an MGF and should be read in conjunction with an expert review of a car and/or a professional inspection.

TIMELINE OF CHANGES

APPENDIX 2 – COLOURS

The body colour code is found on a rectangular plate riveted to the body behind the ABS unit under the bonnet on the left, facing the car, or where the ABS unit would be if your car does not have ABS brakes.

MGF

MGTF